Friday, July 15, 2011

Gluten Free Pie Crust


My hero Alton Brown insists that any a good pie crust worth its salt should be the perfect combination of tender and flaky, and since he's my hero he must be right! Unfortunately, finding good flakiness without wheat-gluten in the dough is a true challenge. This is because the flakiness in a good pie crust (or croissant, or phyllo dough) comes from proper layering of fat and flour, and good layers happen when the gluten is in the dough to stretch out the flour around the thin layers of butter.

So we can't get full-flakiness without wheat, but with a little experimentation and tips I've learned over the years, I've found we can get awfully close. We can't get big, wide flakes, but with a little extra binding, acid and xantham gum, we can still construct smaller flakes that taste great.

My pie crust recipe tastes flaky and falls apart in your mouth in a way that feels like a wheat-gluten crust. It's just that the flakes are more diminutive and a tad more crumbly, so it won't hold the pie together quite as firmly on the plate. The bottom line: it tastes the same; each slice just needs a little more care when being moved from pie-plate to dessert-plate to mouth.

And so versatile. I can't be bothered with remembering different recipes for covered pies, dessert pies and savory pies, so I just use this one all the time. I've used it for apple pie (more details below), quiche, and the July-4th fruit tart pictured here.

A warning when making these little beauties: since there is no gluten in the dough, it will not stretch. Even though the dough balls up and can be formed into a disk just like a regular pie dough, when you roll it out it will not hold together to be lifted. What this means for the gluten-free pie-maker is that you cannot pick the dough up off the counter and into a pie plate. The rolled-out dough will just fall apart. The only way I've found to make the transfer is the invert-method: be sure to roll the dough out on top of wax paper, invert the greased pie plate onto the dough, then flip the whole thing over so the wax paper ends up on top. Finally, carefully peel off the wax paper and repair any holes and breakups by patching.

Here are some more details on how I use this pie crust with other recipes.
  • I love this apple pie recipe, but: with my crust and I leave off the top crust (it is hard to put in place over a pie). I also modify the recipe to simply use a gluten-free flour blend in place of the regular flour called for in the filling and streusel topping.
  • The pictured "flag tart" above used this lemon-curd recipe by Emeril with my crust and improvised berries and homemade whipped cream for the flag. Thanks to my sister Suzy who came up with the design for this tart.
  • I also love Emeril's classic Quiche Lorraine recipe. I use my own crust and add 1/2 cup of carmelized onions for extra goodness.
I tried a lot of pie crust recipes before I settled into this one that I really like. For now, I'm sticking with it.

Sunday, September 13, 2009

Gluten Free Chocolate Chip Cookies



Being on a gluten-free diet for the past 4 years, there are few things I missed more than chocolate chip cookies; and I'm referring to the batter and the baking process, as well as the finished product.

Cookies are more than the resulting crispy treats; for me they include the process of making them with my daughter, sneaking tastes of the batter along the way, and "licking" the bowl while the smell of baking cookies wafts through the house. Well, with this recipe I get almost all of it back.

I remade my recipe today, this time taking careful notes so I could publish the recipe on my website and write this blog entry. As usual, I ate a good deal of the batter along the way, but was still excited to see the resulting cookies still taste as good as "the real thing" as any other gluten-free cookie I've ever tasted.

The history of this recipe began with an Good Eats episode, which included a recipe for Gluten Free Chewy Chocolate Chip Cookies. I'm a huge fan of Good Eats for general cooking techniques and was excited that Alton had applied his brand of "food science" to the gluten intolerant. It didn't take long for me to try his recipe. The cookies were excellent!

But they left me a little disappointed because they were (as intended) quite chewy/cakey. My truly favorite style is the crispy variety of chocolate chip cookie, where the cookie is crispy all the way through, with an ever so slight burnt taste on the edges.

So I went about modifying the recipe to make them crispy. Some changes were ideas inspired by Alton Brown himself (the host of the Good Eats TV show), others I discovered through experimentation. I changed the ratio of white to brown sugar, eliminated the egg-yolk and changed other proportions until I got the consistency I was looking for. The result is the recipe I made this afternoon. Please enjoy it and leave your comments here.

Every gluten-free recipe for baked goods has certain trade-offs when wheat flour is replaced with "something else." These cookies are no exception, so here are some of the pros and cons of this recipe.

How They Are Just As Good as Wheat-Flour Cookies
  • Delicious!
  • Crispy through and through.
  • Raw batter is almost indistinguishable from wheat-flour based batter (my kids can't tell the difference)
  • Resulting cookies can be made a little cakey inside (if that is what you like) by "mounding" the dough on the cookie sheet rather than flattening the dough a little.
Where They Fall Short of "Real" (Wheat-Flour) Cookies
  • Graininess: The rice flour provides a slight graininess to the cookies that you don't find in "real" cookies. Some of the reviews I've had actually find this adds an appealing distinctiveness to the cookies, but there is a real difference here from regular cookies.
  • Out-Of-Oven: When they first come out of the oven and are warm, they are like little cakes: in other words they don't have that gooey, just-out-of-the-oven sinful goodness of "real" chocolate chip cookies. Once they cool, they are as good as the real thing, but they can't do what real cookies do right out of the the oven.
I love cooking, and my gluten intolerance provides me with a fun opportunity to experiment with ways to make gluten-free foods taste great. Look for more recipes in future posts.

Let me know what you think, whether you have other favorite recipes, or have ways to improve on mine!